Amongst Family: Gorilla Trekking In Rwanda

Rwanda, often referred to as the "Land of a Thousand Hills' offers some of the most breathtaking landscapes and unique wildlife experiences in the world. Among its awe-inspiring inhabitants are the mountain gorillas, a species that has captured the hearts of many. Trekking through the lush forests of Volcanoes National Park not only provides an opportunity to witness these incredible creatures up close but also fosters a deep connection with nature and the environment. These gentle giants exhibit complex social behaviours and strong family bonds. Observing them interact offers insights into their lives and highlights the importance of conservation efforts.

The towering Virunga mountains. There are eight Virunga Volcanoes that are found in the park.

Of all my travels not a single experience has been as humbling and moving as gorilla trekking in Rwanda. There is something magical about the mountain gorilla that is powerful beyond words. I have been fortunate enough to trek mountain gorillas on three occasions and have included some thoughts and added some of my own pictures here for you to enjoy.

The Trekking Day

You start the day at the Volcanoes National Park headquarters, about 1.5 hours from the capital Kigali. There are 12 habituated gorilla groups in the park and a strict limit of 8 trekkers per group is enforced. This means that permits are hard to get - and often need to be booked over 6 months in advance. National Park staff monitor the gorilla populations closely and know the current location of each group before you even check in for your trek. This allows the national park team to give trekkers a guide to what the trek day might look like. For example our group was told to anticipate a 20 minute drive and 80 minute trek to reach the gorilla family. This also helps to ensure that trekkers are 'matched' to gorilla groups based on fitness and ability. Of course this can change as the gorilla groups often move from their overnight 'nesting' spots!

Our trekking group about to head into the mountains - I am in the orange jacket!

Our group posed for a quick photo and then jumped into a parks vehicle for the drive to the trekking start point. The park staff aim to get you as close to the gorilla group as possible so that your trekking distance on foot is minimised. We then set off on foot in search of our assigned gorilla group - which was the famous Susa Family, made famous by Dian Fossey. Experienced guides lead the group throught the dense vegetation, sharing insights about the ecosystem and the gorilla's behaviour as we trekked.

The Trekking Experience

The trek up to the gorillas was an adventure in itself as we left the rolling hills and hiked through the jungle, which was quite thick at times. It had also rained quite a lot recently, making for some great mud sections at times. We were also escorted up the mountain by a number of porters and guides who greatly assisted our efforts to reach the gorillas. In some particularly slippery sections the porters were on hand to quite literally push some trekkers up the hill!

The trek can take from an hour to five, depending on the location of the gorillas, their movement, the conditions and the pace of the trekking group. The trek can be strenuous, requiring a good level of fitness, but the effort is rewarded with unforgettable encounters. Our trek lasted for just over an hour before word was spread that the gorillas were near.

Being Welcomed Into The Family

When told we were close to the gorilla family we were asked to stop and get organised. This entailed getting our cameras ready, organising what we we needed with us and then giving unnecessary items such as backpacks to the porters to look after. The guides then started 'calling' to the gorilla group and literally asking for permission to join them. Hearing the calls of the guide and the response from the gorills gave me goosebumps and heightened the anticipation - we really were about to come face to face with these majestic animals!

Our first view of the group was of about 15 gorillas, ranging in age from the old silverback to very young babies. Some were enjoying a light snack whilst others were basking in the sunshine and having a rest. Some young gorillas were chasing each other around and a couple decided they would try to climb some bamboo until the bamboo no longer held their weight and they came tumbling down. I remember one gorilla just sitting in the clearing and gazing off into space. She looked like she was deep in thought and at one point was rubbing her chin like she was really contemplating an idea! Other gorillas just watched us, holding our gazes deeply. Looking into the eyes of the gorillas felt like gazing into the depths of a soul - they exuded such a wonderfully gentle and calm sense. Perhaps though one of my favourite moments was watching a small family unit - mum, dad and a couple of young. The mum and dad were laying in the sun, mum stroking the foot of the male as they lay there. The two young started chasing each other, running around mum and dad and ruining the serenity. As one of the young ran past, dad reached out and grabbed the young gorilla and pulled him into a giant cuddle to calm him down and put an end to the chase. The sense of just how closely related we are as humans to these magnificent animals was palpable.

When trekking the gorillas contact is always kept to a maximum of one hour. The gorilla family is already habituated to human beings, which really means that the gorillas usually go on about their daily business totally unperturbed by human presence. You are told not to touch the gorillas and stay about 5 to 7 metres away from them - but the gorillas have their own rules and often come closer. In our group a young male thought he would show off and decided to run at one of our trekking group. He ran towards her and brushed past her, giving her a light tap as he did!

Fond Farewells

All too soon the hour disappeared and we took those last couple of photos and made our farewells. With precious memories we made our way back down to our vehicle for the return trip to the park headquarters. When we reached the park we were each presented with a our trekking certificate from the park wardens, which is a small gesture for appreciating our contribution to conservation. In fact, Rwnada's committment to protecting mountain gorillas has resulted in a significant increase in their population, making trekking a vital part of conservation. Gorilla trekking supports local communities and promotes sustainable tourism, ensuring that the benefits of conservation are shared widely.

Some local children looking after their goats curiously watched us as we trekked past them on our way back from seeing the mountain gorillas.

Final Thoughts

Trekking to see mountain gorillas in Rwanda is more than just an adventure; it is a chance to connect deeply with nature and contribute to the conservation of these magnificent creatures. There is really nothing like experiencing the wild mountain gorillas in their own environment. Majestic gentle creatures, the chance to spend some time with them is one of the greatest wildlife encounters on earth!